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florida girl

Beach Fanatic
Feb 3, 2006
1,453
67
Santa Rosa Beach
You sure about that?

You don't have to build an interior wall for wiring and insulation, in some cases if the end user desires a small sub-wall can be built using 1x1 firing strips, but a full two inches is unnecessary. As far as building out for insulation that's also incorrect as many poured in place homes now use a Styrofoam form so the insulation is built in.

As far as steel reinforcing, while that may a code requirement I can show you hundreds of examples of concrete block homes throughout the gulf coast that have weathered hurricanes just fine without steel reinforcement.

I agree with the first part, haven't seen the second. All dad's concrete block houses had steel reinforcement. There is some cool new stuff used now made from concrete that also insulates.
 

Koa

Beach Fanatic
Jul 17, 2010
260
56
concrete block may be cheaper than wood, but you will need a lot more block than you will need wood, and I bet that the labor to lay all that block is much more expensive as it will take much longer to frame.

Concrete isn't cooler. It takes longer to heat and cool (much more energy).

Roofs? I've seen concrete roofs on concrete homes, but I've also seen every other type of roof on these houses. I see =/- with wood and concrete construction.
 

scooterbug44

SoWal Expert
May 8, 2007
16,732
3,330
Sowal
IMO the best way to go is to do the insulated concrete forms - pretty quick, solid as heck, and very well insulated.

Any new wood frame house in Sowal is full of $$ metal straps and clips, so you don't really save on metal compared to rebar in concrete block or formwork.

Big savings on homeowner's insurance too.
 

florida girl

Beach Fanatic
Feb 3, 2006
1,453
67
Santa Rosa Beach
concrete block may be cheaper than wood, but you will need a lot more block than you will need wood, and I bet that the labor to lay all that block is much more expensive as it will take much longer to frame.

Concrete isn't cooler. It takes longer to heat and cool (much more energy).

Roofs? I've seen concrete roofs on concrete homes, but I've also seen every other type of roof on these houses. I see =/- with wood and concrete construction.

Dad used to put up a block house in about 2 weeks. I live in his dream house of concrete block, it holds the heat, and cool longer than wood frame. Miserable in the winter, but awesome in the summer. I've added a hip roof with attic and insulation which made an unbelievable difference to winter misery.
 

TNJed

Beach Fanatic
Sep 4, 2006
589
118
53
Seagrove Beach, FL
That's why I like the ICF - styrofoam insulation on both sides of the concrete solves that problem.

Yes, that method is great. Much like the SIPS (Structural Insulated Panel) method for pre-manufactured homes. For me though, if you insulate concrete on the outside you lose the thermal mass advantage because the sun can't heat the home. Maybe not a bad thing where winter's are mild ;-)

I have tons of links on different homebuilding methods that I think are fun and brilliant. Here are a few companies I like:

FabCab

Cabin Fever Home

Compact Cottage Company

hip & green


And then there is this blog which features "tiny homes". I'm not a tiny home person but I find a lot of great links and ideas there.

http://tinyhouseblog.com/
 

Dmarcht

Beach Comber
Mar 28, 2008
9
0
Atlanta, GA
Any wall system you consider, you need to address theses issues: moisture infiltration, insulation value, strength under hurricane wind loads, how windows and doors are installed (sill waterproofing and flashing,crack sealing), exterior finish, interior wiring and outlet space and interior finish and make sure the Florida Building Code and Walton County accepts the type of construction you are proposing. A structural engineer is going to have to sign off on your plans to get a permit. Finally cost. There are a lot of interesting systems out there but there is usually a premium paid for systems contractors aren't used to, not in materials necessarily but in head scratching time and making sure every sub on the job is familiar with how you are putting the components together. Work with your architect and get some cost comparisons for different systems from your contractor. Moisture is your biggest enemy. You need to maintain a strong moisture barrier between the exterior and interior finishes. High humidity levels can and will cause mildew growth on the back of drywall and wall coverings that you don't see but could be breathing. Uncoated porous materials like concrete, concrete block, styrofoam and wood can wick in moisture so you need some other type of moisture barrier. Air conditioning dehumidifies in the summer but in the winter heating will not and can actually help mold growth. Codes and building officials don't pay alot of attention to waterproofing and moisture issues or good flashing practices for that matter so you, your architect and your contractor have to.
 
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