Wind Protection

I like the clear, lexan shutters because they're tough as nails, see through, and light weight so they're easy to install, remove and store.

Unless that fabric is made of kevlar (sp?) it's not worth it.

Unless that fabric is made of kevlar (sp?) it's not worth it.

People installed those porch tarps down on old 98 in 2005, I remember driving past after a storm and seeing a ton of them ripped to shreds on the upper floors. Based on that I wouldn't recommend them either.

I don't have personal experience with the fabric, but my understanding is that it is Miami Dade county rated. The condos in Seagrove above Flip Flops have the fabric if you want to check with the owners there.

We have a combination of real working shutters, accordion and lexan panels on our houses. If you have a 2nd or 3rd story that doesn't have easy access, the accordion work well. You can lean out the window to close and lock them. We have lexan panels for the 1st floor windows and a few balcony windows. Although a lot easier than plywood, they do require storage and installation. Unlike plywood, it is clear and allows sunlight, so you can keep them installed for a period of time without feeling like you're in a cave. The real working shutters work great for the windows in the front of the house that needed dressing up anyway. They were expensive but are easy to open and close and look great.

If I had it to do over again, I would have used more accordion shutters instead of lexan, even on the first floor. Accordion was more expensive which entered into our original decision. With accordion, there's no storage required and they don't require carrying to put them up. Accordion are a lot faster to close and open so you don't need as much time to close up the house. The accordion are more noticeable on the house while opened, than the hardware for the lexan panels, but we found that it kind of blends in to the house more than we thought.

We didn't entertain doing rollup after finding out the cost and hearing about mechanical issues.

Don't forget your garage! Our insurance company pointed out that the garage door with windows was a problem. Although the door itself was wind rated, the windows weren't impact rated. We are now the proud owners of a new wind and load rated, very heavy door, which replaced our perfectly good old door.

I have these: http://www.wayne-dalton.com/Fabric-Shield.asp

I have these: http://www.wayne-dalton.com/Fabric-Shield.asp

Those were the ones I was thinking of, I don't know that I'd spend the cost on enclosing a porch with them. 😱

I have these: http://www.wayne-dalton.com/Fabric-Shield.asp

Do you have them on windows? I can't see how a fabric would keep glass from being broken.

Do you have them on windows? I can't see how a fabric would keep glass from being broken.

That's where the Kevlar comes in. ;-)

pantyhose are a daunting barrier

I have these: http://www.wayne-dalton.com/Fabric-Shield.asp

I have these too. And they are Miami Dade rated. Citizens gives the maximum discount for them. (Citizens has about three levels of discounts for hurricane protection.)
They prevent breakage the same way any hurricane shutter does - a flying missile does not penetrate. There is no issue with them blowing off, because if properly installed they don't flap around. I don't think they would work on a porch though, too much flapping.
I chose these because one person can put them up in a relatively short period of time, and they roll up for storage. Also they let a lot of light through, so it is not like the plywood cave. And they were less expensive than real working shutters, which the house also does not have room for around all the windows.

I have these too. And they are Miami Dade rated. Citizens gives the maximum discount for them. (Citizens has about three levels of discounts for hurricane protection.)
They prevent breakage the same way any hurricane shutter does - a flying missile does not penetrate. There is no issue with them blowing off, because if properly installed they don't flap around. I don't think they would work on a porch though, too much flapping.
I chose these because one person can put them up in a relatively short period of time, and they roll up for storage. Also they let a lot of light through, so it is not like the plywood cave. And they were less expensive than real working shutters, which the house also does not have room for around all the windows.

These look interesting. How do they fasten to the house? Is there a lot of hardware visible when the shutters aren't installed?

The flexible panels may work if the windows and doors are set deep enough back in the wall. When debris hits the panels, it flexes to absorb the hit and the debris pushes the fabric several inches, possibly contacting glass that would cause breakage.

Seems like a very good upgrade idea for any home built pre-code.

I am a window and door guy and have witnessed first hand what a 2 X 4 can do to the exterior of a building.

If you can't do the windows as hurricane rated, the next best thing is a system that is permanent on the building such as roll down shutters or a system that comes in multiple smaler pieces that can actually be handles easily in windy conditions. You do not want to pick up a sheet of plywood in a 40MPH wind and walk around with it or worse yet, start climbing a ladder with it.

How do they fasten to the house? Is there a lot of hardware visible when the shutters aren't installed?

There are a couple of hardware options, "male" and "female." (Don't we love these terms ;-))
I chose the male, because it was cheaper, and since the house is old, I was not particularly concerned with the appearance. The fabric panels have grommets that slip over the permanent hardware and are fastened down with wing nuts. The hardware goes on two of the four sides of each window - on my house it is the solid trim pieces around the window openings. When not in use, I cover the hardware up with those little plastic caps, and honestly, I never notice them anymore. I think the female would be less noticeable, probably. Obviously you need something sturdy to attach to, and the installers have to get the measurements right so they don't flap. When putting them up, the hardest part is tugging on the panels to get the grommets to slip over the screws - it is a tight fit.
Hope this helps.

The flexible panels may work if the windows and doors are set deep enough back in the wall. When debris hits the panels, it flexes to absorb the hit and the debris pushes the fabric several inches, possibly contacting glass that would cause breakage.

Seems like a very good upgrade idea for any home built pre-code.

I am a window and door guy and have witnessed first hand what a 2 X 4 can do to the exterior of a building.

If you can't do the windows as hurricane rated, the next best thing is a system that is permanent on the building such as roll down shutters or a system that comes in multiple smaler pieces that can actually be handles easily in windy conditions. You do not want to pick up a sheet of plywood in a 40MPH wind and walk around with it or worse yet, start climbing a ladder with it.

Yes, and care to tell everyone what "penetration" is actually defined as when talking about hurricane windows and doors. I think most people would be shocked.

These look interesting. How do they fasten to the house? Is there a lot of hardware visible when the shutters aren't installed?

I have the females. Depending on the construction, they either are inserted flush to the finish, or stand off about an inch. Mine stand off. The panels are secured by flattop screws via a phillips head screwdriver.

Yes, and care to tell everyone what "penetration" is actually defined as when talking about hurricane windows and doors. I think most people would be shocked.

A 9 pound 2 x 4 that is 8 feet long is shot out of an air cannon at 50 feet per second or about 34 MPH striking the center of the window. The glass can break, but the breakage cannot create a hole that you could pass a 3" sphere through or a rip in the glass interlayers that exceeds 5 inches in length.

After all this, they subject the window to 9,000 wind cycles that simulate hurricane force winds in an attempt to either push the glass out of the window or to suck it out. After 9,000 cycles, the glass is checked again for the 3 inch sphere or the 5 inch rip that would indicate a failure.

I once witnessed a test where the 2 X 4 went through glass being tested at too low of a building temperature making the glass more brittle. The 2 X 4 continued through the door and exited the building through the 8 inch thick concrete block wall.

Native plants and trees offer the best protection if available. They are especially useful in keeping neighbors debris from flying into your house. Scrub oaks can be trimmed for view, but left dense enough to offer sun and wind protection. Through Opal and Ivan, etc. never lost a shingle (individually nailed) or window. Have yet to cover windows with anything, although this does not mean I won't if more poorly constructed docks, awnings, etc. get installed in wind blowing distance.

A 9 pound 2 x 4 that is 8 feet long is shot out of an air cannon at 50 feet per second or about 34 MPH striking the center of the window. The glass can break, but the breakage cannot create a hole that you could pass a 3" sphere through or a rip in the glass interlayers that exceeds 5 inches in length.

After all this, they subject the window to 9,000 wind cycles that simulate hurricane force winds in an attempt to either push the glass out of the window or to suck it out. After 9,000 cycles, the glass is checked again for the 3 inch sphere or the 5 inch rip that would indicate a failure.

I once witnessed a test where the 2 X 4 went through glass being tested at too low of a building temperature making the glass more brittle. The 2 X 4 continued through the door and exited the building through the 8 inch thick concrete block wall.

Thanks, some window sellers act as though this is some sort of huge secret never to be revealed to the end user.

While I appreciate the honesty I'd rather not have a hole to begin with, hence the fabric shield. Hubby is an architect and unfortunately the biggest cause of failure to a structure is the breach of any part of it.

I offer AIA Continuing Education Credits with a program I offer for builders and architects about this information. I spent 10 years developing hurricane resistant windows and doors for the Marvin brand prior to coming to the Panhandle.

My understanding is that it takes a hole somewhere in the neighborhood of 10% of the surface envelope of a building before the home can pressurize to the point that it could lift the roof off.

I don't worry about glass nearly as much as I worry about failure of locking systems, hinges and structural components built into hurricane resistant windows and doors. Wood splits from the initial impact and then fatigues over time and pressure cycles. Screws begin to pull out of wood. The twisting of stiles and rails under pressure allows locking systems to seperate because of the twisting action. Lots of things go wrong under extreme pressure. I can honestly say I have probably seen it all in this area.

I offer AIA Continuing Education Credits with a program I offer for builders and architects about this information. I spent 10 years developing hurricane resistant windows and doors for the Marvin brand prior to coming to the Panhandle.

My understanding is that it takes a hole somewhere in the neighborhood of 10% of the surface envelope of a building before the home can pressurize to the point that it could lift the roof off.

I don't worry about glass nearly as much as I worry about failure of locking systems, hinges and structural components built into hurricane resistant windows and doors. Wood splits from the initial impact and then fatigues over time and pressure cycles. Screws begin to pull out of wood. The twisting of stiles and rails under pressure allows locking systems to seperate because of the twisting action. Lots of things go wrong under extreme pressure. I can honestly say I have probably seen it all in this area.

I've seen the results of extreme stretching pressures----but that's why bedroom lights should be turned out!

:lolabove::funn:

:lolabove::funn:

Attention Sowal'rs::::::::: If you want any information about windows or doors ask ASH. I don't know anyone today who knows more true information.

Why thank you sir. You're not just saying that because you still have the taste of Jambone's on your breath are you?

It was nice meeting you.

Any other high end builders out there need a lunch and learn session about impact windows and doors? Contact me and let's talk.

I offer AIA Continuing Education Credits with a program I offer for builders and architects about this information. I spent 10 years developing hurricane resistant windows and doors for the Marvin brand prior to coming to the Panhandle.

My understanding is that it takes a hole somewhere in the neighborhood of 10% of the surface envelope of a building before the home can pressurize to the point that it could lift the roof off.

I don't worry about glass nearly as much as I worry about failure of locking systems, hinges and structural components built into hurricane resistant windows and doors. Wood splits from the initial impact and then fatigues over time and pressure cycles. Screws begin to pull out of wood. The twisting of stiles and rails under pressure allows locking systems to seperate because of the twisting action. Lots of things go wrong under extreme pressure. I can honestly say I have probably seen it all in this area.

Hip roof or gable? I understand there is a big difference.

Thanks to those who mentioned the Lexan panels. This finally sounds like a practical solution for our home with no garage -- they seem lightweight, easily stored in the attic and, if installed beforehand, take little time to put up before a storm.

What about French doors? We have six pairs. I would be concerned about not just the glass but the hinges. 😱

How the roof is attached to the walls or how the sheathing is attached to the rafters is the bigger story than the roof style. Any roof will lift if not properly screwed down.

Hinges have never been a weak link in a door from my experience unless very short screws have been used. You would literally need to shear the hinge to make it fail due to how it sits when the door is in a closed position. Hinges transfer the load to the frame and therefore to the structure much better than the locking system on the opposite side of the panel because locking systems are smaller in size and usually less locking points than the door will have hinges.
The usual failure mode for a 2-panel door is that the top and bottom locking rods either bend to the point that they bypass the frame or the steel rods rip right through the frame at the top or bottom and let the door fly open.
Been there, seen that.....makes a lot of noise. :shock: