One of my favorite movies. Apart from the truly stunning footage, there are some fascinating personal stories.
Greg Noll's story of his first truly big wave is one of those "if I don't do this I'm never going to forgive myself" moments.
But Jeff Clark stands out for me. Paddling out alone for years at the treacherous Mavericks near Half Moon Bay is the mark of deep-rooted self-confience. No Darwin awards there.