Restaurant Fire at Gulf Place is pretty large and rather clubby. There’s a bar/lounge just as you enter, with tables for dining and several large screen TVs. A turn to the left will take you into the main dining area, with a high ceiling, polished wood tables, and walls decorated with framed paintings. The color scheme tends toward the flame palette—browns, reds, burnished copper, set off by earth tones and comfortably dim lighting that highlights the glassware. There are also outdoor tables. Jazz and world-beat music plays at a modest level, and everything feels relaxed and welcoming.
I, my wife and the Tiny Diner had dinner at Fire on a recent weeknight. The TD is in the beginning steps of BA (Binkies Anonymous), and we actually forgot to pack a backup emergency pacifier in her travel bag. That, and hunger, were making her more querulous than normal. We hoped she would behave herself for the meal.The hostess made all of us comfortable in a corner table, with a high chair for TD, whose crossness gave way to the interest she always shows in new surroundings. Our server Ryan took a friendly shine to my daughter. TD in turn gave him a smile. I think she thought he was cute.
We took a look at the menu. Ryan advised us that several items were not available that evening (fortunately nothing we missed). Fire offers appetizers, small plates, salads, a soup of the day, and main course choices of beef, pork, fish, duck and shellfish. It’s not a lengthy list, but each item is imaginatively prepared, with some intriguing garnishes, sauces and sides.We started with a dip trio. Fire offers a choice of six dips—apricot habanero, olive tapenade, spicy boiled peanut hummus, caramelized onion cheddar, blue cheese cranberry pistachio, and pimento cheese. We chose the first three. I had the apricot habanero to myself (too much pepper for my wife), and wasn’t sure about the hummus—I have yet to acquire a taste for boiled peanuts—but I needn’t have worried. If you think you don’t like boiled peanuts, this may be for you. All three dips were distinctively flavorful, and there was plenty for sharing. Baby lettuce, baby carrots, grilled pita and flour tortilla chips are there to scoop with. The TD didn’t eat much dip, but she gnawed on the pita.Other starters are soup, roast beet, mixed greens and oyster and spinach salads, Gulf seafood three ways (smoked snapper dip, fried grouper cheeks and shrimp remoulade), and mussels with a fennel garlic and white wine sauce. Small plates include an heirloom tomato stack, grilled flatiron steak, and butternut squash and blue crab agnolotti (a kind of ravioli).
My wife called the crispy skin cured duck breast, which left me to choose from a braised short rib “pot roast,” grilled black grouper with chickpeas, pan seared skin-on red snapper, a sweet tea brined “airline chicken” with cornbread dressing, New York strip steak with sweet potato “risotto,” shrimp puttanesca with a mascarpone polenta cake, and a doublecut pork chop with fried pork belly mac and cheese. I thought hard about the pot roast, and someday I must try mac and cheese with pork belly, but red snapper won out.
The duck was served sliced into bites, with a mound of sweet and tangy red cabbage and a white bean, truffle and duck confit casserole. There was duck crackling scattered over it all, and the skin had a sweet/hot crunch from the Tabasco-honey glaze. It was everything a duck should be.
My snapper was by no means a secondbest. The fish (also with crispy skin) sat on a bed of sliced fingerling potatoes with leeks, and was topped with a relish of crabmeat and bits of mirliton. There was a flavorful snapper broth that soaked right into the squares of cornbread that came with the meal. We got TD to try some cornbread, but she concentrated on tortilla chips, and chewing the occasional non-toxic crayon.
Desserts that night were apple cobbler, chocolate ganache blackout cake, a white chocolate mascarpone cannoli and the house specialty, sticky toffee cake. We got the latter. Be advised, it’s easily enough to share. The brick of cake is served very warm, with creme caramel and toasted pecans. It doesn’t need anything else, not even whipped cream. It made me think of the stuff people eat in the novels of Charles Dickens—the ones with happy endings.There’s a lot of great stuff going on at Fire. It’s friendly, elegantly cozy, efficiently run and the food is worth repeat visits.
Courtesy, The Beachcomber
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