Onano Neighborhood Caf? is an out-of-the-way treasure
By Deborah Wheeler
Nestled at the southern end of Rosemary Beach?s meandering Main Street, just before the town green meets the sea, is a tall, stately,red-brick building that houses The Pensione European bed and breakfast.
Occupying the fi rst floor of the building is Onano Neighborhood Caf?. On Sunday mornings the caf? doors are opened and the aroma of freshly-baked goods waft out into the street, luring passersby to stop. The quality of food, service and ambiance passersbys discover might be a pleasant surprise from a small eatery.
Inside, the long bar has been transformed into a smorgasbord buffet feast that features something for all tastes. Pancakes, Southern-style biscuits and gravy, ham, pork chops, beef tenderloin, seafood curry, shrimp and scallops anchor more exotic offerings of smoked salmon with creamed cheese, tabboleah, chorizo and cheese, polish sausage, arrancini (Italian orange spiced rice balls), strada, eggs benedict by order and the dessert table.
Dining is available inside or out. Most choose the latter. Outside dining in the mild December weather offers an idyllic scene with children playing in the park and an occasional shorebird swooping in for a closer look. Proprietors Penny, Mark and 5-monthold Johnny Dragonette pass among the guests, making themselves available for small talk. The restaurant?s name came from the small mountain town in Italy where Mark?s grandparents lived. Open for brunch since October, the response has been good, said Penny. ?People kept asking for it and we had the kitchen and staff to do it,? she said. The food on the buffet changes weekly, under the hand of Chef Steve Carpenter. One constant is the fruit tray. ?One week he prepared Southern traditional foods, we have tenderloin frequently and always an array of baked goods,? said Penny.
Carpenter joined the team of chefs at Onano in June. The Dragonettes employ a team of six chefs, all with a different specialty.
Onano is open for dinner Monday through Saturday. About once a month during shoulder season, they also host a Monday night wine dinner with a four-course special menu paired with three different Italian wines.
On New Year?s Eve, Onano is offering a special five-course meal. The caf? will then be closed for almost four weeks, reopening Jan. 25.